An Expert’s Guide to Caring for and Styling Gray Hair (2024)

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Our bodies undergo copious physical changes as we age, but the transition to natural gray hair (aka “going gray”) is among the most nerve-wracking. A full mane of silver strands is an immediate signal of age, which can be empowering or something of a struggle, depending on your perspective. Still, learning to properly tend to gray hair—whether you're starting the process of ditching dye jobs altogether or simply want to upgrade your existing routine—helps the hue work for you, rather than against you. Silver and gray are luxurious neutrals, so why not take a cue from our hair care experts and treat them that way?

To begin, it's helpful to understand how natural gray hair differs from other organic hair color. “​​With age, hair loses density, shine, and pigment, and the oil glands in the scalp produce less sebum,” says Ph.D. scientist, certified hair practitioner, and biotech/pharmaceutical patent attorneyDr. Gaby Longsworth. Rather than white, Longsworth notes that gray hair is transparent, almost like glass, due to a loss of melanin, a natural guard against ultraviolet radiation. “Gray hair lacks this natural protective mechanism making it more sensitive to the sun’s rays, which results in the oxidation of hair proteins,” Longsworth notes. “That is why white and gray hair is more likely to oxidize, looking yellow and tarnished.” All the more reason to capitalize on care—we'll trade “yellow and tarnished” for “vibrant and luscious,” please.

In addition, the reduction of sebum production can result in hair that feels coarse, wiry, and dry—especially for curly texture, according to Longsworth—meaning that we should plan to adjust hair care and styling routines accordingly. Read on to discover the essential steps to make sure your natural grays make the sort of statement you want.

Remove Buildup With a Clarifying Shampoo

For cleansing silver hair, clarifying shampoo is your new bestie. “To keep gray hair healthy, only use gentle clarifying shampoos and avoid sulfates which are especially drying for gray and curly hair,” says Longsworth. “Using a charcoal, ACV detox type product weekly or biweekly also keeps silvers as white as possible—and keeps the scalp healthy.” Formulated with chelating agents, apple cider vinegar, and hydrolyzed keratin, Oua’s Detox Shampoo is designed to slough away dirt and oil while conditioning hair. Alternately, Rubel recommends rotating between L'Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Shampoo and traditional cleansers for a deep clean.

Cleanse With Care

When you aren’t using a clarifying formula, your daily shampoo should work to enhance the look and feel of your lengths. “The absence of pigment in gray hair can cause hair to turn yellow due to product build-up, metals and minerals in our water, heat styling, sun exposure, and other external factors,” notes Nina Rubel, creative director and head of color at Rob Peetoom Salon in Williamsburg. In short, investing in purple shampoos or products to prevent brassiness is the key to a desirable hair look. Longsworth recommends Davines’s color-enhancing purple shampoo, crafted specifically for platinum and cool blonde tones, or Klorane’s neutralizing shampoo, which is enriched with organic centaury to counteract copper and yellow tones.

Prioritize Moisturizing Treatments

After cleansing, comes conditioning. “Gray hair needs more moisture than non-gray hair,” says Longsworth. Aside from the conditioners corresponding to your chosen shampoo, a hydrating mask or deep conditioner can be a thoughtful addition. Briogeo’s mask is always a good idea, known to revive dry, damaged hair after just a few uses. Prefer a clean formula? Enter Innersense’s option infused with shea butter, flax seed, quinoa, coconut, and tamanu oils to quench thirsty strands without weighing them down.

Select a Reparative Leave-In

Whether or not styling tools factor into your hair care routine, a leave-in serves to repair and protect sapped strands. “Because gray hair is more susceptible to damage, making sure we are strengthening and protecting the hair is imperative,” Rubel explains. “Repair masks such as K18 are a great way to reverse prior damage while protecting the hair from future stress and wear and tear.” Aside from the popular K18 treatment, Augustinus Bader’s formula is powered by the brand’s acclaimed TCF8 complex alongside supercharged superfoods and antioxidants to promote shiny, thick, hydrated strands.

Keep a Balanced Scalp

Regardless of your chosen hue, healthy hair starts at the scalp. New York City-based trichologist Bridgette Hill previously toldVoguethat hair serums are helpful to “provide moisture, protection, and/or styling benefits for scalp or hair fiber.” Dr. Barbara Sturm’s works to minimize dryness, oiliness, and inflammation of the hair fibers. On the other hand, Kérastase’s option uses a blend of ceramides, conditioning agents, and green tea extracts to soften hair and reduce breakage.

Promote Hair Growth and Strengthening

Similarly, a product dedicated to strengthening pigmented and gray hair types, and even bolstering growth, is one worth investing in. Longsworth is partial to Mielle’s acclaimed oil, which boasts an impressive cocktail of castor oil, rosemary, peppermint, biotin, and tea tree oils. Then there’s Oribe’s treatment serum enriched with chia seed, bamboo, plant-based protein, and hyaluronic acid to not only fortify strands but protect against heat up to 450 degrees.

Pair Hot Tools With a Heat Protectant

Again, prioritize protection when using styling tools. “When gray hair is overworked with hot tools, it can become dull and turn a yellowish tone due to the heat so proper protection is a must,” says Rubel. While some of your chosen hair products may already have heat-protecting qualities, a standalone spray could be useful. Both Kenra and Bumble and Bumble’s formulas safeguard against heat up to 450 degrees.

Switch Up Your Stylers

Don’t be frustrated if the styling products you once held dear no longer work for you—now is the time to switch things up! Longsworth is partial to Miribel’s lightweight gel for soft weightless hold and simultaneous infusion of moisture via conditioning ingredients like aloe vera, flaxseed extract, and vitamin E. Should your hair feel flat, amp up the volume with Paul Mitchell’s volumizing liquid, (which counts model Maye Musk as a fan) or Shu Uemura’s mousse endorsed by Rubel. For any other styling needs, Living Proof’s spray delivers versatile benefits from instant volume to undone texture.

Lock in Moisture

As a final step, a drop of hair oil can remedy dry, brittle strands by locking in moisture. Delicately slather on Davines OI Oil to add shine and softness to wet or dry hair without weighing it down, especially if hair is feeling extra coarse. Bread Beauty Supply’s elixir is a solid choice, too, powered by Kakadu plum for unmatched shine and hydration.